According to Rick Steve's, one should see the main sights of Athens and then "scram." It's probably because I haven't seen the rest of Greece yet, and last night's sprinkles cleaned out the air and gave us a a beautiful cool day but so far, I disagree.
I like the contrasts- ancient ruins popping up next to an H&M clothing store, men flipping worry beads as tourists with tennis and day packs scurry past-pockets of authenticity as Athenians live life.
The promenade that leads away from teeming Monastraki Square and the tourists zone is lined with trees, restaurants, and the occasional gypsy. Street merchants sell their wares and waiters stand outside with menus in hand enticing diners. Every possible alley and small side street has outdoor tables filled with people. It's dizzying. So many possibilities in every corner. 
We continue to walk. The promenade ends and opens into an impromptu plaza, an open gravel space overlooking a subway stop-this is the Thissio neiborhood. With drummers jamming in the backdrop and groups of young people blasting their own music we watch the sunset overlooking the subway platform below and watching people heading home from work or meeting up to start their evening paseo.
The sprawl extends almost as far as the eye can see, all the way to Piraeus port in the south but we'll never explore that far. We'd never have too.
Keep enjoying your adventure!
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