Nafplio

 We were sad to leave Nafplio this morning which is a testament to the town. It's a mix of sleepy daytime tourists and bustling evening paseo. It's cruise ship and tour buses leaving only to be replaced by luxury yacht and cars from neighboring towns. It's neo-classical square topped by maze like ottoman buildings. It's beach side resort overlooked by a Venetian fortress. It's teens and tweens looping the port side promenade in awkward packs while their little brothers and sisters play soccer and chase in the main square, their parents lounging at outdoor tables catching up with family and friends. It's Saturday night clubbing until the pale dawn. It's a symphony of birds and church bells in the morning punctuated by a singular cat screech. It's a wonderful picture of life at play.

 

 

 

Medieval Monemvasia

 

Carved into the side of an island, we reach Monemvasia from the mainland by crossing a one lane causeway. No cars are allowed into the city so we have to park alongside the road leading up to the main gate and walk in. "Really?" Michael asks as we parallel park, ocean on the left, towering mountain on the right.

"Yes, and we should pack light since we're only staying one night." I pull out my scarf, begin to place some essentials in the center and then I tie it all up into a little sac. "Hobo Marv, huh!" Michael is amused and I think it adds to the adventure. 

 

 

As promised there is an entry way that looks like a short tunnel through a stone wall. Stepping through it we are momentarily plunged into darkness From the contrast of the blasting sun. Turn a corner and the entry opens up onto a narrow cobbled walkway.

 

 

We are told that our hotel is "all the way at the end of town, the last hotel." Already dripping with sweat, I brace myself for the long walk, which, takes 3 minutes. 

The town is unbelievably tiny! Small shops and restaurants line the cobbled path(sidewalk? It's super narrow). Shopkeepers hang outside gazing lictkrsdly. I feel a little self conscious walking by. They look too bored for a "kalimera!" And their gaze makes me feel like a smile would intrude on their space. Maybe it's my own lack of personal space that's making me slightly uncomfortable. It's hot and the narrow path is making me feel a little claustrophobic. 

 

I'm grateful when we reach the end of "the road" and it opens up to a rocky veranda with tables, chairs and a view of the expansive ocean.From here you can see the wall that borders the town. Even walled in, the view of the Ocean makes feel like I'm on the edge of the world and the edge of time.

 

 

 

An evening in Athens

  According to Rick Steve's, one should see the main sights of Athens and then "scram."  

It's probably because I haven't seen the rest of Greece yet, and last night's sprinkles cleaned out the air and gave us a a beautiful cool day but so far, I disagree.  

   I like the contrasts- ancient ruins popping up next to an H&M clothing store, men flipping worry beads as tourists with tennis and day packs scurry past-pockets of authenticity as Athenians live life. 

The promenade that leads away from teeming Monastraki Square and the tourists zone is lined with trees, restaurants, and the occasional gypsy. Street merchants sell their wares and waiters stand outside with menus in hand enticing diners. Every possible alley and small side street has outdoor tables filled with people. It's dizzying. So many possibilities in every corner. 

 

We continue to walk.  The promenade ends and opens into an impromptu plaza, an open gravel space overlooking a subway stop-this is the Thissio neiborhood. With drummers jamming in the backdrop and groups of young people blasting their own music we watch the sunset overlooking the subway platform below and watching people heading home from work or meeting up to start their evening paseo.

The sprawl extends almost as far as the eye can see, all the way to Piraeus port in the south but we'll never explore that far. We'd never have too. 

 

Arriving in Athens

 Driving into Athens I can see the words "concrete sprawl" definitely apply but the word I think of is "vibrant." It's almost 11:00 at night and couples are still out window shopping while eating ice cream, cars full of young people cruise the streets, Athenians fill outdoor tables in front of tavernas much like their ancestors have done. Graffiti, yes, but we haven't seen any homeless. It's late and after 27 hours of traveling(never again discount airlines) I don't have the energy to ask our driver, Dimitri, about the refugees. We zoom along into the concrete maze, passing the lit up parliament building and the guards, "a good business" our driver says sardonically, Syntagma Square, the national garden, King George's square(or is it St. George?), "you can walk all night, it's safe, see" our driver assures us pointing out all the people walking around the neon lighted square. Like a mouse searching for that prized peice of cheese we wound our way and park in a small alley at the head of a little side street that is closed to cars. "This is okay" our driver reassures us again, "it's safe here." I wonder if he must have the impression that Americans are overly concerned about their safety considering what a dangerous country we live in. Just 20 feet around the corner he deposits us and our bags to the Hotel Adonis, a small but modern hotel(modern being relative, especially in the cradle of civilization). 

27 hours later, w finally made it! I'm excited to explore!